Effective Ways for Home Remodeling and Renovation

If mechanical ventilation does not exist, a system should be recommended to the homeowner. Also strongly encourage the homeowner to upgrade their current furnace filter to higher-performing media filter. If condensation on windows exists, consider the following, provide ventilation to help manage the indoor moisture level, replace the windows with a high-performance product. If the homeowner has a serious comfort problem, a more detailed evaluation of the home’s existing performance may be required. This may involve blower door and duct blaster testing, careful balancing as well as the possible use of an infrared camera.

Recommend a quality heating contractor to do a full analysis of the heating systems, performance and safety. Check for back drafting, heat exchanger integrity and proper combustion. Also if there are cold rooms, consider balancing the system or adding more insulation on air sealing. If the existing ductwork is unsealed and it passes through unconditioned spaces such as attics and crawl spaces, recommend that a professional contractor seal the seams or consider relocating them within the condition space. We recommend that all homes have some form of mechanical ventilation and improved filtration. This is critical when you’re remodeling project may tighten up the building envelope and reduce leakage.

Any fireplace, the Lexus sealed enclosure or airtight doors are subject to back drafting easily when negative indoor pressures exist. Should this type a fireplace exist, we recommend replacing the firebox with the closed combustion units or installing air tight doors. This performance inventory provide you with the tool that can create more opportunities to increase the value of your project and improve the comfort, energy efficiency, durability and resale value of your client’s home. Remember the rules of building performance apply to all homes new or old.

If you have any questions regarding the application of these rules, review that section in this program. For those builders or homeowners, preferring to build to a higher standard such as sustainable construction or green building standards, they’re now local, regional and national programs offering support and recognition. Many these programs provide guidance and standards for each area of remodeling from tear down in recycling to material selection. Remodeling is an opportunity to apply the whole house systems approach the second time. This can enhance your business by increasing referrals reducing liability exposure on call backs improving the existing housing stock.

Water Management Membranes for Home Foundation

All foundation systems must have a strategy for managing water. This water comes from rain and water in the soil. The water in the soil creates hydrostatic pressure. This pressure can actually push water through openings in the foundation wall. An economical and effective strategy for managing water must be designed for the conditions on the site both above and below grade.  A successful water management system has footing drainage to collect the water from the wall drainage system and directed away, treats the foundation wall with the system that reduces capillary flow and hydrostatic soil pressure manages the rain that falls near the building with grading, gutters, downspout and effective landscaping. These methods combined with the well installed foundation or result in a less complex and reduce liability risk.

Water management will start at the footings. The job of a footing drainage system is to collect and transport water away from the foundation wall. The components of a footing drain system include footing sleeves, rigid perforated drain pipe or drain tile around the exterior of the footing, flexible corrugated perforated drain pipe or drain tile and integrated footing inform drainage products. All of these systems will benefit from the installation of footing sleeves which all are moisture and soil gas inside the foundation to drain out or be collected and removed. We recommend that all footing drain pipe systems been closed in a bit of 3/4inch air kit wrapped in filter fabric. All these footing drainage methods must be drained to daylight.

All concrete and masonry foundation walls will crack. All foundation walls with auto-water management system will eventually leak and allow water and water vapor to pass into the building. So the key is to move water away from the foundation in reduce hydrostatic pressure. To achieve this, we need to do the following: minimize penetrations in the walls, apply water management membrane to the wall, use a wall drainage system, backfill with a positive sloped grade. Below grade penetrations are an opportunity for moisture and insect entry to relocate and minimize the number of below grade penetrations in the design phase.

There are two major categories for water management membranes, damp proofing or waterproofing. Waterproofing membranes are designed to be impervious to liquid water penetration and hydrostatic soil pressure. Damp proofing membranes are designed only to shed liquid water and cannot stop hydrostatic soil pressure. Water proofing and damp proofing membranes can be applied in a variety of ways, sprayed on, rolled on, trolled on, and in sheets.

How To Build A Pergola Frame

I’m going to show you how to build a pergola. Get few different tools. Make sure you have concrete and wheelbarrow for putting all posts in the ground. Secure as well power saws here for cutting and drilling all my timber. Get as well levels and ladders, so you can get access up nice and high. All safety gear, a tape measure, pencils, and hammers. Get also an assortment of screws and bolts for putting bits and pieces together. Prepare as well post stirrup and joy stirrups here. Shovel for digging some holes and for mixing some concrete. Handsaw and some clamps for holding it all together, whilst we’re setting it up. Also I’ve got my timber beams, posts, and batons. That’s going to be all the material we’re going to use to build our pergola.

One of the first parts of building a pergola frame is to get the post into the ground. One of the most common ways of doing that is using one of these post stirrups. We’re going to dig our hole and put the stirrup down into the ground, and then concrete it in into position. You engineering drawings and council plans well guide how far apart you have to space these stirrups, the type of post you are going to use, and how far in the ground you have to actually dig it all. So after you  already got that information given to you from council, with all of your engineering information on it.

After you done with my hole. You just going to quick measure to make sure that you post is in the center. Your hole is dug, the next thing you need to do is put the stirrup into the ground using cuts of timber to hold the stirrup over the hole so you can put you concrete in. But before you put you concrete in, you need to make sure that you are in the right position.

If this is a square, there is a good chance when your post goes up your post is going to be at a square as well. So you really want to get a good line in here, make sure the’re in position. Get concrete mixed up in you wheelbarrow. Fill it up until you get just around the base of that stirrup, it’s going to be around 50, 60 mil below the top of that stirrup. And then check it again to make sure  still in line because the concrete will move it around a fair bit. After you got the post stirrup in position now. Continue on with the rest of them, and once they’re all set, stand the post up. While waiting for the concrete to dry on the post stirrups,  cut the wiling plates. The wiling plates goes up on the space here. This is where rafters are going to come in from your pergola. And now after you already measured it, cut it to length and  use a friend to help, put it up there and fix it into position. Before you put the wiling plates up onto the fissure, the fissure isn’t a structural member. So what you need to do is find a way to fix the wiling plate into the ends of the rafters. After you got your nail in fissure which tells you where that is, but once you put you wiling plate over you’re going to lose that line.

So you have got to mark underneath here, get right along the fissure and mark it that way. Once it’s up there, we’ll then nail it off and then we’ll put some screws into it. We’ve put a few nails up in here now to hold this wiling plate into position. That isn’t our final fixing, we’re going to put some large bugle screws in there now. To do that, We are going to put a square line underneath, lining with the mark. and then down the face. Your going to put some clearance holes through here now, and once you got that in there, draw the large bugle screw through to give extra strength. You are going to two in the end of each rafter that takes me through the fissure and into the rafter itself.

Go along the remainder of the wiling plate here and put two screws in the end of each rafter. Once you done that, continue on with the rest of my pergola. You want to get the bugle screw just to go below the surface. You don’t want to bury it too far and you certainly don’t want to leave it high. Just below the surface is how it’s going to work. Now that you’ve done that, it is nice and secure. Cut a template and that sits underneath the gutter. It follows the same profile. Cut the profile cut on the end of all my rafters, and they’ll fit in there nice and neat. Now positioned my template on the rafter.  Mark it out, use square down the face. So you now want to come with your jigsaw. Put it down this space as well so when you exit with the jigsaw, sign line as well. And then with your jigsaw, with the right type of blade in, cut it out and got some raw timber. Put some primer paint on that so it takes that open surface. Begin to measure, cut, and install the rafter according to your plans.